Long, dark twisted Danhu Old Bush dry tea leaves with bronze and olive highlights on white porcelain.

Tea and Terps · Episode 1

Carbon and Fenghuang Oolong

The first episode: Nik brews his favorite tea in the world, a single-tree Phoenix oolong, then reads a paper that asks why plants trust carbon to an enzyme that looks broken.

  • Nik and Peter
  • Phoenix oolong
  • 1:42:49

The cup

One old tree on Phoenix Mountain

Nik opened the series with what he calls the best tea he has ever had: Danhu Old Bush, a Phoenix oolong from Danhu village on Phoenix Mountain in Guangdong. Every leaf comes from a single old tree, picked once a year in spring over a window of a few days, and it gives only a few pounds of tea.

Phoenix oolongs are named for their fragrances, honey orchid and night-blooming jasmine among them, and Nik traces their craft back roughly nine hundred years on this one mountain. The making takes a great deal of work: plucked at midday in the sun, rattled through the night to bruise the leaf edges, pan-fired, rolled and then roasted over charcoal, sometimes for months.

Tea
Danhu Old Bush / Lao Cong Song Zhong / 丹湖老樅宋種
Origin
Danhu, Phoenix Mountain, Guangdong, China, 鳳凰山・丹湖
Style
Single-tree old-bush Phoenix oolong
Vintage
2022
Brewing
Gong-fu style, 8 grams of leaf, 80 mL De Hua gaiwan
Source
Tea Hong

What Nik noticed

  • Citrus, kumquat and orange oil
  • Sandalwood, incense and vanilla
  • Sweet and creamy
  • A gripping, mineral finish

Special notes

A spring harvest from a single old tree. Nik has followed this same tree across several vintages.

Nik's white gaiwan of dark, twisted Phoenix oolong beside a cup of amber tea, on air in Episode 1
On air in Episode 1, at 9:41
How a Phoenix oolong is made
  1. PluckedOn a sunny day, near midday
  2. Sun witheredSpread thin on bamboo to soften and warm
  3. RattledShaken through the night to bruise the leaf edges
  4. Pan firedHeat stops the browning enzyme
  5. Charcoal firedRoasted over fruitwood charcoal, then rested
How far each tea is oxidized
  1. Green teaheated at once
  2. Phoenix oolongred edges, green heart
  3. Oriental BeautyEpisode 6
  4. Black teafully oxidized

Nik's picture for oxidation is a sliced apple browning. Rattling bruises only the edges of an oolong leaf, so it opens with reddened margins around a green center.

Chapter by chapter

Inside the episode

Press any time to play the episode from that moment. While it plays, the chapter you are in lights up.

  1. Welcome to Tea and Terps
  2. Play from 0:17 The first episodeNik introduces the show and his co-host for the night, Peter from the Future Cannabis Project.
  3. Play from 2:38 The chessboardA simple board and endless games: the analogy Nik promises to build on across the series.
  4. The cup
  5. Play from 3:40 The best tea he has ever hadWhy the first cup had to be a single-tree Phoenix oolong.
  6. Play from 6:01 One tree, one harvest a yearPicked once a year over a few days, and brewed at one part leaf to ten parts water.
  7. Play from 9:33 Citrus, kumquat and sandalwoodThe first steep, and aroma compounds that bloom in hot water.
  8. Play from 11:09 Phoenix Mountain on the mapA small region of villages on one mountain's slopes, and Danhu village.
  9. Play from 14:15 Pheno hunts that take decadesOld mother trees, grafts and cuttings, and a breeding cycle measured in generations.
  10. Play from 16:44 Teas named for their fragranceHoney orchid, night-blooming jasmine, and the story behind duck shit oolong.
  11. Play from 20:05 Volcanic soil and a gripping cupMinerality strong enough to turn the tongue to leather.
  12. Play from 25:22 Picked at midday in the sunWhy Phoenix oolong is plucked on sunny days near noon.
  13. Play from 27:29 Sun withering and the cut applePartial oxidation, the step that defines oolong.
  14. Play from 28:49 Rattling the leaf edgesA night of bruising that leaves red edges and a green heart.
  15. Play from 35:14 Pan firing and charcoalHeat stops the browning, and charcoal over local fruitwood builds the tea's personality.
  16. Play from 38:22 Months of firing, years of restSome of the best Phoenix oolongs rest a year or more before release.
  17. Carbon
  18. Play from 41:00 Carbon as a macronutrientThe question behind the podcast: how a plant takes up and uses carbon.
  19. Play from 45:24 A paper by Abir IgamberdievControl of Rubisco function via homeostatic equilibration of CO2 supply, from 2015.
  20. Play from 48:36 Is Rubisco broken?The most abundant protein on Earth is slow, and it also reacts with oxygen.
  21. Play from 50:05 More enzyme than substrateRubisco outnumbers the CO2 around it by two to three orders of magnitude.
  22. Play from 51:07 CO2 by way of waterThe paper's case that carbonic anhydrases keep a pool of dissolved carbon flowing to Rubisco.
  23. Play from 53:16 Photorespiration recycles carbonWhen Rubisco grabs oxygen instead, much of the carbon is recovered.
  24. Play from 54:27 From formaldehyde to CalvinHow the route of carbon fixation was worked out, from 1861 to the 1950s.
  25. Play from 58:52 The woodworker and the woodWhy plants switch an enzyme on only once its raw material has built up.
  26. Play from 1:03:34 Thermodynamics, not NPKNik's thesis: plants use nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to navigate an energy landscape.
  27. Play from 1:06:49 420 against 209,000CO2 is a trace gas in an atmosphere full of oxygen.
  28. Play from 1:10:00 Plants are obsessed with carbonNitrogen, phosphorus and potassium build the machinery that captures it.
  29. Play from 1:12:20 Water splitting feeds the cycleElectrons, protons and CO2, delivered together to the Calvin cycle.
  30. Play from 1:14:36 A million reactions a secondCarbonic anhydrase is one of the fastest enzymes known.
  31. Play from 1:17:50 Burn tires, not axlesPhotorespiration as a safety valve that keeps energy flowing.
  32. Play from 1:21:08 The water-water cyclePlants split water on one side of a membrane and remake it on the other.
  33. Questions
  34. Play from 1:33:14 Oolongs that live in the fridgeWhy Nik keeps sensitive Phoenix oolongs cold.
  35. Play from 1:36:31 What comes nextThe format for future episodes, one tea and one deep topic at a time.
  36. Play from 1:37:36 Everything else runs on plant carbonDecomposers like Trichoderma live on carbon a plant fixed first.

Rubisco

Rubisco looks broken

The paper Nik reads, Abir Igamberdiev's 2015 article on the control of Rubisco, opens with a puzzle. Rubisco is the enzyme that fixes carbon dioxide into sugar, and it is the most abundant protein on Earth. It is also slow, managing only about three reactions a second, and it cannot fully tell carbon dioxide from oxygen. Grab oxygen by mistake and the plant has to spend energy cleaning up.

A lot of scientists have concluded that Rubisco needs redesigning, faster or choosier, and some engineering work has produced real gains. Nik disagrees with that conclusion. The paper argues that Rubisco only looks broken when you study it on its own: wired into the fast enzymes that feed it and the photorespiration that protects it, the whole system works well.

The point here basically is that Rubisco seems really slow and sloppy.

Nik
Rubisco and its fast partner
Compared Rubisco Carbonic anhydrase
Its jobFixes CO2 onto a five-carbon sugar Turns CO2 and bicarbonate into each other
SpeedLess: About three reactions a second More: Up to about a million a second
How commonThe most abundant protein on Earth A family of zinc enzymes in every leaf
In the paperThe slow engine The fast supply line

Carbon supply

Carbon may reach Rubisco by way of water

The textbook picture has carbon dioxide drifting in through the stomata and straight into Rubisco. The paper argues for something more deliberate. In a leaf, Rubisco outnumbers the CO2 around it by two to three orders of magnitude, so the enzyme cannot be waiting on stray molecules from the air.

Instead, much of the carbon dissolves into the cell's water, a large share of it as bicarbonate, and carbonic anhydrases, among the fastest enzymes known, turn it back into CO2 right where Rubisco needs it. The paper ties that release to the splitting of water in photosynthesis, so electrons, protons and carbon arrive together. Nik presents it the way the paper does, as a well-argued hypothesis rather than settled fact.

maybe it's a multi-step operation where the plants are first solubilizing passively

Nik
A pool of dissolved carbon
  1. AirCO2 enters the leaf through the stomata
  2. WaterIt dissolves into the cell's water, much of it as bicarbonate
  3. Carbonic anhydraseFast enzymes turn bicarbonate back into CO2
  4. RubiscoFixes the CO2 into sugar

The route the 2015 paper argues for. It is a hypothesis about how the supply is controlled, not a fertilizer trial.

Oxygen

420 parts per million against 209,000

Life in sunlight and oxygen is harsh. The air holds about 209,000 parts per million of oxygen and only about 420 of carbon dioxide, so a plant spends its days pulling a trace gas out of an atmosphere that is constantly trying to oxidize whatever it builds.

That is why Nik refuses to call photorespiration a mistake. When CO2 runs short and light keeps pouring in, Rubisco's work on oxygen gives the energy somewhere to go and recovers much of the carbon, instead of letting electrons back up and damage the leaf. His comparison is a car: better to spin your tires than to break an axle.

would you rather burn your tires or break your axles?

Nik
What a leaf is up against
  • Oxygenabout 209,000 ppm
  • Carbon dioxideabout 420 ppm

Parts per million in dry air, drawn to scale. The carbon dioxide bar is that thin.

Photorespiration as a safety valve
  1. Too little CO2Light keeps arriving faster than carbon
  2. Rubisco takes oxygenThe energy is spent rather than backed up
  3. Carbon recoveredMuch of it returns to the cycle

Carbon

Plants are obsessed with carbon

Weigh a dried plant and almost half of it is carbon. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium together make up a few percent. Nik's point is that a plant is not chasing those nutrients for their own sake: nitrogen and magnesium build chlorophyll, phosphorus carries energy, and the whole machine exists to catch sunlight and store it in carbon.

His larger claim, the thesis of the series, is that plants navigate an energy landscape rather than an NPK one. They use the elements as tools to capture, move and hold energy, and the carbon compounds they build, sugars, organic acids and terpenes, are where that energy ends up.

So plants are obsessed with carbon.

Nik
A young leaf lit from behind, beaded with dew
What a dry plant is made of
  • Carbonabout 45%
  • Oxygenabout 45%
  • Hydrogenabout 6%
  • Nitrogenabout 1.5%
  • Potassiumabout 1%
  • Phosphorusabout 0.2%

Typical shares of a plant's dry weight (Epstein's classic figures; species vary). Most of the oxygen and hydrogen is built into the same carbon compounds.

Real structures

The molecules in the carbon story

Five molecules from the episode, rendered from real PubChem geometry rather than drawn. Pick one to read why it matters, then turn it in three dimensions.

Ribulose 1,5-bisphosphate

The five-carbon sugar Rubisco attaches CO2 to. The six-carbon product splits at once into two three-carbon molecules, which is why plants like tea and cannabis are called C3 plants.

Structure data: PubChem open chemistry database

Molecular structure

Drag to rotate. Scroll or use +/- to zoom.

C5H12O11P2

Ribulose 1,5-bisphosphate, Rubisco's partner.

The foundation

Built from a flash of light

Nik ends the carbon story with what depends on it. Using sunlight to pull electrons from water and fix carbon in an atmosphere full of oxygen is a rare ability in biology. No fungus can do it, and among microbes only the photosynthetic ones can, cyanobacteria above all, whose ancestors became the chloroplast.

On land, almost everything else lives on what plants fix. Decomposers such as Trichoderma break down residues plants left behind, and the carbon in every cell of your body was once pulled from the air by photosynthesis, most of it by plants.

plants are taking a flash of light and stretching it out into a lifetime of experience

Nik
Where the carbon goes
  1. SunlightA photon's energy reaches a leaf
  2. A plantFixes carbon into sugar and builds itself
  3. The soilFungi and microbes live on what plants leave
  4. Everything elseIncluding the carbon in every cell of you

Moments worth rewinding

Short cuts into the conversation

Moments from the clip archive. Each one plays the full episode from where it starts, and the short plays on its own.

Rubisco looks broken

The paper calls Earth's most abundant enzyme slow and sloppy. Nik's word for the rush to redesign it: unfortunately.

  • The story of duck shit oolong

    One story goes that a farmer gave his finest tree an unappealing name so the neighbors would not steal cuttings.

  • Why tea leaves brown like a cut apple

    White, green, oolong and black teas differ mainly in how far the leaf's catechins are allowed to oxidize.

  • Red edges, green heart

    Rattling bruises only the edges of the leaf, so an opened oolong leaf shows reddened margins around a green center.

  • More Rubisco than CO2

    In a leaf, Rubisco outnumbers the carbon dioxide around it a hundred to a thousand times, one of the puzzles the paper takes on.

  • What plants are up against

    About 209,000 parts per million of oxygen against about 420 of carbon dioxide, and a plant still builds itself from the carbon.

  • Spin the tires, save the axles

    Photorespiration gives a leaf somewhere to send energy when carbon runs short, instead of letting it back up and do damage.

  • Splitting water, remaking water

    In the water-water cycle, electrons taken from water on one side of a membrane are used to turn reactive oxygen back into water on the other.

  • Soil fungi live on carbon a plant made

    Decomposers break down what plants leave behind, so the soil's life runs on carbon a leaf fixed first.