Bright green Japanese tea leaves opened after steeping, in a dark pot

Tea and Terps · Episode 5

Pigments and Gyokuro

Nik and Travis brew a competition gyokuro, a green tea grown in shade, and follow the color of a leaf down to its molecules: chlorophyll, carotenoids and anthocyanins, and what each one means in a grow room.

  • Nik and Travis
  • Uji gyokuro
  • 2:01:19

The cup

Uji gyokuro, grown in shade

Gyokuro is Japan's shade-grown green tea. For roughly the last three weeks before picking, the bushes are covered, and the leaf responds to the dimmer light by growing darker and richer in chlorophyll while it holds on to more of the amino acids, theanine above all, that taste savory and sweet.

Nik's cup is a competition production from Uji, near Kyoto, the region he calls the mecca of Japanese green tea, hand rolled by a sixteenth-generation master. Japanese green tea is made simply: the fresh leaves are steamed, rolled and dried. Steaming stops the browning before it can start, the way a sliced apple stays white if air never reaches it, so the cup keeps the leaf much as it grew.

Tea
Uji Gyokuro Yayoinoin / 宇治玉露 弥生の韻
Origin
Uji, Kyoto, Japan, 京都・宇治
Style
Shade-grown Japanese green tea
Vintage
2025
Brewing
Competition-style, 10 grams of leaf, 220 mL Tokoname kyusu by Yoshiki Murata (村田益規), Seigaiha sencha cup
Source
Tea Hong

What Nik noticed

  • A salty sea-breeze aroma
  • Deep, savory umami
  • A rich, coating mouthfeel
  • A fruity flash, like yuzu or kiwi

Special notes

Shaded before harvest, then steamed, rolled and dried.

Pale yellow-green Japanese green tea in a cup painted with blue waves
Japanese green tea, photographed by Nik
How gyokuro is made
  1. ShadeThe bushes are covered for about three weeks before picking
  2. PickThe young spring shoots are plucked
  3. SteamHeat stops the enzymes that would brown the leaf
  4. RollThe leaves are rolled into flat, glossy needles
  5. DryDrying sets the leaf for the cup
How Nik brewed it on air
  1. First steep 2:00150°F, about 65°C
  2. Second steep 1:30155°F, about 68°C
  3. Third steep about 3:00the longest, last pull

Gyokuro is brewed cool and slow. Water well below boiling keeps the umami in front, because hotter water pulls more of the bitter, astringent catechins. Nik also pours gently down the side of the pot, so the stream lifts the leaves instead of crushing them.

Chapter by chapter

Inside the episode

Press any time to play the episode from that moment. While it plays, the chapter you are in lights up.

  1. The cup
  2. Play from 0:41 Tonight's planNik lays out the evening: a competition green tea from Japan, then chlorophyll, carotenoids and anthocyanins, picking up last episode's thread on resin and light.
  3. Play from 1:58 A hand-rolled competition gyokuroThe tea comes from a sixteenth-generation master, and Japanese green tea is made simply: steamed, rolled and dried.
  4. Play from 4:03 Why gyokuro grows in the shadeGyokuro is covered for about three weeks before picking, the opposite of a resin crop that is pushed toward all the light it can take.
  5. Play from 6:22 The shape of the potA wide kyusu lets the flat needles open naturally, and the shape of a pot changes how the leaves brew.
  6. Play from 8:26 Cool water and the cut appleWhy green tea is brewed well below boiling, and how browning, like a cut apple's, divides green tea from oolong and black.
  7. Light, terpenes and the leaf
  8. Play from 12:24 Resin as sunscreenPicking up from last time: the cannabinoids and terpenes in trichome heads as a guard against strong light.
  9. Play from 15:06 Myrcene and the hashishene questionDrying flower in the sun leads to a question about light rearranging myrcene after harvest.
  10. Play from 18:17 Chlorophyll needs light to be madeOne late step in building chlorophyll is driven by light itself, which is why seedlings sprouted in the dark come up yellow.
  11. Play from 20:04 Terpenes have no single jobThe same terpene can attract one creature, deter another and harm a third.
  12. Play from 24:59 Pigments that break on purposeCarotenoids take the brunt of strong light, and the pieces they break into become signals.
  13. Chlorophyll
  14. Play from 30:02 The shade responseUnder shade, the chloroplast enlarges its light-harvesting antenna to gather more of the dimmer light.
  15. Play from 32:29 Chlorophyll a and bTwo forms of chlorophyll, one small group of atoms apart, each catching slightly different colors.
  16. Play from 33:14 Stars in a constellationHundreds of pigments sit in organized arrays, passing energy inward to the reaction center.
  17. Play from 36:39 A lightning strike in the leafCharge separation, the moment light becomes chemistry, behaves like lightning looking for ground.
  18. Play from 39:59 Shade reshapes the antennaShading shifts the balance of chlorophyll a and b, and Uji growers were shading their tea centuries before anyone could explain the sweetness.
  19. Anthocyanins and carotenoids
  20. Play from 42:57 Who absorbs which colorCarotenoids and anthocyanins absorb colors chlorophyll uses least, which is why purple leaves look purple.
  21. Play from 46:07 Purple in cannabis stemsPurple can show in stems and trichome stalks, but water-soluble pigments rarely reach the oily resin head.
  22. Play from 51:02 Six anthocyanins, many colorsThree cores, a few added groups and a change of acidity take anthocyanins from strawberry red to blueberry blue.
  23. Play from 57:17 Why cold nights turn plants purpleCool nights bring on purple, and Nik suggests anthocyanins help cells through the cold as well as the light.
  24. Play from 1:00:17 The late-nitrogen mythTravis raises the old idea that heavy nitrogen late in flower brings purple, and Nik explains why it tends to bring green and stretch instead.
  25. Play from 1:06:38 Anthocyanins are sandwichesNik's metaphor: the core first, then the dressing, the bread that makes it water soluble, and the wrapping.
  26. Play from 1:13:08 Carotenoids are cablesLong chains with end caps, where every added double bond and closed ring changes the color.
  27. Play from 1:18:37 A pigment that switches with the lightSome carotenoids change form as light rises and falls, helping the leaf shed energy it cannot use.
  28. Back in the grow room
  29. Play from 1:22:33 Shade-grown flower, from experienceTravis describes the shade-grown jar he liked best from one cut grown in many settings, and finishing flower under lower light.
  30. Play from 1:26:26 How a cannabinoid is builtCannabinoids come from two pathways meeting, and Nik suspects the flowers lean more toward flavonoids than the resin heads do.
  31. Play from 1:30:38 Purple under blue and red LEDsPlants grown under blue and red LEDs often color up, and the hosts trade ideas about why.
  32. Play from 1:34:12 Leaf shape and light through a leafNarrow leaves, broad leaves, and the changing light a leaf passes to the cells below.
  33. Play from 1:39:40 Green light is not wastedGreen is the color chlorophyll absorbs least, yet it still drives photosynthesis deeper in the leaf.
  34. Play from 1:46:42 Dim the lights as the pot driesLess light means less water use, so Nik tapers the light as the pot dries rather than right after a heavy watering.
  35. Play from 1:52:08 Next time: aromaThe episode closes by setting up the next one: from what you see to what you smell and taste.

Shade

One crop wants shade, the other wants everything

For cannabis, Nik says, quality is built in strong light: the compounds a resin grower wants depend on high light intensity and a high energy load. Gyokuro is grown the opposite way: covering the bushes for the final weeks before picking is the central step of the method.

Under cover the leaf changes in several ways at once. It turns a deeper green and adds chlorophyll, it keeps more of its free amino acids, theanine above all, and it builds fewer of the catechins that taste bitter and astringent. The savory sweetness in the cup comes from that changed leaf, not from one molecule turning into another.

the compounds that we're looking to produce in these plants are a function of high light intensity and a high energy load.

Nik, on cannabis
Generated Uji tea garden: bright green tea shoots under a woven reed shade canopy held up on bamboo poles.
Generated regional interpretation of traditional shaded tea cultivation in Uji, Kyoto.
Gyokuro, open sun against shade
What changes Grown in open sun Covered before picking
Leaf colorLighter green More: Deeper, darker green
ChlorophyllLess More: More, with a larger share of chlorophyll b
Free amino acids, theanine above allFewer kept More: More kept
CatechinsMore Less: Fewer
In the cupBrisker and more astringent Sweeter, rounder and more savory

Directions of change measured in covered tea (Sano and colleagues, 2018; Sakaida and colleagues, 2010). How large each change is depends on the cultivar, the cover and its timing.

Chlorophyll

Stars in a constellation

It is tempting to picture photosynthesis as sunlight landing on a green molecule and sugar coming out the other side. Nik's picture is closer to what happens. Chlorophyll sits in organized antennas, hundreds of pigments held at exact distances by proteins, like stars in a constellation. A photon excites one pigment, and the energy hops from neighbor to neighbor toward the center.

At the center sits the reaction center's special pair of chlorophyll a. When the energy arrives, an electron is pushed out and handed down a chain of carriers. Nik compares it to a lightning strike: charge builds, then discharges all at once into a ground downstream. That moment, charge separation, is where light becomes chemistry.

Shade changes the antenna. A shaded leaf builds a larger one, richer in chlorophyll b, so each reaction center collects energy from a wider area. Press Shade to see it.

your chlorophyll pigments are dotted like stars in a constellation

Nik
An antenna around a reaction center
A light-harvesting antenna around a reaction center Rings of chlorophyll a, chlorophyll b and carotenoid pigments surround a pair of chlorophyll a molecules at the center. A photon lands on an outer pigment and its energy hops inward, pigment to pigment, to the central pair, where an electron is sent onward. In shade, an extra outer ring rich in chlorophyll b gathers dimmer light for the same center. a photon an electron leaves charge separation reaction center the special pair, chlorophyll a chlorophyll a chlorophyll b carotenoid the excitation's path

An illustration of the arrangement, not a molecular structure: each dot is a pigment. A real photosystem holds a few hundred chlorophylls for each reaction center.

Color

Every pigment takes its own slice of light

Chlorophyll absorbs strongly at both ends of the visible spectrum, in the blue and in the red, and least in the green, which is why leaves look green. Its two forms differ by a single small group of atoms, a methyl on chlorophyll a where chlorophyll b carries a formyl, and that is enough to shift the colors each one catches.

The other pigments fill in around it. Carotenoids absorb blue and blue-green light and pass some of that energy on to chlorophyll. Anthocyanins absorb green and yellow-green light, and they look red to purple to our eyes because the blue and red they leave behind is what comes back to us.

Who absorbs which color
Absorption of the four pigment families across visible light Chlorophyll a absorbs most strongly near 430 and 662 nanometers and chlorophyll b near 453 and 642. Carotenoids absorb blue and blue-green light between about 420 and 500 nanometers. Anthocyanins absorb green and yellow-green light around 525 nanometers. Between about 500 and 600 nanometers both chlorophylls absorb least, which is the green a leaf reflects and passes deeper. A marker at 680 nanometers shows the wavelength photosystem two's reaction center is tuned to. The green window 680 nm 400 450 500 550 600 650 700 wavelength, nanometers absorbs more →

Simplified absorption of the purified pigments, each scaled to its own peak: chlorophyll a near 430 and 662 nanometers, chlorophyll b near 453 and 642, carotenoids between about 420 and 500, anthocyanins around 525. In a living leaf the bands broaden and shift a few nanometers. Press a pigment to see it alone.

Green light

Green light works deeper in the leaf

Green is the color chlorophyll absorbs least, so it is easy to call it wasted, but the leaf still uses it. A green photon carries more energy than a red one; chlorophyll's structure just absorbs green less strongly. Hold a leaf up to the sun and the glow you see is green light passing through.

That leftover green is still put to use. Blue and red are mostly taken up in the first layers of cells, while green travels deeper into the leaf, where it still drives photosynthesis. In strong white light, measurements have found extra green light raising a leaf's photosynthesis more than extra red light does. As the hosts put it, the inside of a canopy, and even of a single leaf, is almost shade grown by itself.

A green leaf lit from behind, its veins glowing
Where each color goes in a leaf
How deep blue, red and green light travel into a leaf A cross-section of a leaf: the upper surface, a layer of tall palisade cells full of chloroplasts, a layer of loose spongy cells with air spaces, and the lower surface. Blue light is absorbed in the first cells, red light a little deeper, and green light reaches the spongy cells near the bottom, with some passing out of the underside. blueredgreen upper surface palisade cells, most chloroplasts spongy cells and air spaces lower surface

A schematic cross-section, with qualitative depths: blue and red are absorbed near the upper surface, green reaches the spongy cells, and some passes through (after Terashima and colleagues, 2009).

Anthocyanins

A pigment built like a sandwich

Nik's favorite way to explain anthocyanins starts at a sandwich shop that builds from the middle out. The meat is the core: one of three, pelargonidin, cyanidin or delphinidin, which differ in how many hydroxyl groups they carry. Strawberries owe their red to pelargonidin; blackberries make cyanidin, and so, Nik notes, does cannabis.

The dressing is methyl groups, which turn those cores into peonidin, petunidin and malvidin and nudge the color as they go. The bread is sugar: attached to the core, it makes the pigment soluble in water, so it can move through the plant and dissolve in the cell's watery vacuole. Finally comes the wrapping, with a delivery slip, in Nik's telling, that sends each one where it belongs.

Acidity matters too. The same anthocyanin runs red in acid and shifts toward purple and blue as the pH climbs. It is at its most stable in acid; push the pH far enough the other way and it breaks down for good.

imagine walking into a sandwich shop and the first thing that they ask is, 'What kind of meat do you want?'

Nik
Strawberries, raspberries, a blackberry and blueberries
Nik's anthocyanin sandwich
  1. The meat: the corePelargonidin, cyanidin or delphinidin, with one, two or three hydroxyl groups
  2. The dressing: methyl groupsTurn the cores into peonidin, petunidin and malvidin, shifting the color
  3. The bread: sugarsMake the pigment soluble in water, so it can travel and dissolve in the vacuole
  4. The wrap and the delivery slipTags that send each pigment to its place in the cell
One anthocyanin across pH
  1. Acidred, and most stable
  2. Near neutralpurple
  3. Alkalineblue
  4. Strongly alkalinebreaks down

A typical anthocyanin in solution. In living tissue, metals and other molecules held alongside it shift the color as well.

Carotenoids

Cables with caps, and shock absorbers

If anthocyanins are sandwiches, Nik says, carotenoids are cables. Every one starts as phytoene, a colorless chain of forty carbons. Enzymes add double bonds along it, and as the run of alternating bonds grows, the chain begins to absorb visible light: lycopene, the fully extended chain, is red. Close a ring at each end and you have the orange carotenes. Add oxygen and you have the yellow xanthophylls.

In the leaf they work as shock absorbers. They help harvest blue light, and they protect the machinery when the light is too strong. The xanthophylls even change form with the light: in strong sun, violaxanthin is converted, through antheraxanthin, into zeaxanthin, which helps the leaf shed the excess as heat, and in dim light the cycle runs back.

When carotenoids are cut, some of the pieces act as signals. The plant hormone abscisic acid, which helps close the stomata under stress, is cut from them. Episode 6 picks up the thread from there: the same kind of cutting gives beta-ionone, which smells of violets.

Carotenoids are like cables that are formed and there's 2 end caps

Nik
From colorless chain to signal
  1. PhytoeneA colorless chain of forty carbons
  2. LycopeneDouble bonds added along the chain: red
  3. CarotenesA ring closed at each end: orange
  4. XanthophyllsOxygen added: yellow, and light-responsive
  5. FragmentsCut into signals and scents
The xanthophyll switch
  1. ViolaxanthinDim light: two epoxide groups
  2. AntheraxanthinHalfway: one epoxide group
  3. ZeaxanthinStrong light: none, and it helps shed excess energy as heat

Strong light drives the cycle to the right; dim light runs it back.

Real structures

The molecules in the cup and the leaf

Five molecules from the episode, rendered from real PubChem geometry rather than drawn. Pick one to read why it matters, then turn it in three dimensions.

Chlorophyll a

The pigment that catches light. Four nitrogen atoms hold a magnesium at the center of its ring, and a long tail anchors it in the membrane. Chlorophyll b differs by one small group, a formyl where chlorophyll a carries a methyl, which is enough to shift the colors it absorbs.

Structure data: PubChem open chemistry database

Molecular structure

Drag to rotate. Scroll or use +/- to zoom.

C55H72MgN4O5

Chlorophyll a, shown flat: PubChem holds no 3D model of it.

In the grow

Green or purple: where the nitrogen goes

Travis brought an old piece of grow lore: feed plenty of nitrogen late in flower and some plants purple out. Nik explained why it does not hold up. Anthocyanins do start from an amino acid, phenylalanine, but the very first step of their pathway strips the nitrogen off. An enzyme called phenylalanine ammonia lyase keeps the carbon body and releases the nitrogen to be recycled, so none of it ends up in the purple pigment.

Chlorophyll is the opposite. Four nitrogen atoms sit in its ring, holding the magnesium at the center, and that nitrogen stays. Extra nitrogen late in flower can go into green chlorophyll but not into purple pigment, and Nik's warning is that it tends to bring stretch and leafy growth rather than color. Travis's usual suspects, genetics and a wider gap between day and night temperatures, are the better-known routes to purple.

you don't want to feed too much nitrogen too far into flowering. It's gonna mess with the flowers.

Nik
Two pigments, two fates for nitrogen
Built from Chlorophyll Anthocyanin
Starting pointGlutamate, built up into a ring of four pyrroles The amino acid phenylalanine
Nitrogen in the finished pigmentMore: Four atoms, holding the magnesium Less: None, removed at the first step
Its jobCatches light for photosynthesis Screens light and buffers stress
Its colorGreen Red, purple or blue

Moments worth rewinding

Short cuts into the conversation

Moments from the clip archive. Each one plays the full episode from where it starts, and the short plays on its own.

Chlorophyll has a light switch

Seedlings that sprout in darkness come up yellow: one late step in making chlorophyll only runs in light.

  • The terpene the plant never finished

    Light and oxygen keep working on terpenes after harvest. A 2014 study proposed that light rearranges myrcene into hashishene in sun-dried material, though later tests did not find it under their own conditions.

  • Terpenes do not have one job

    The same terpene can attract one species and deter another. Nik's example is limonene, which is harsh on soft-bodied insects.

  • One plant, more than one terpene profile

    A top flower and a lower one from the same plant test differently for terpenes, while the cannabinoid molecules stay the same.

  • The debris is the signal

    When strong light damages carotenoids, some of the fragments act as alarms, and the stress hormone abscisic acid is itself cut from carotenoids.

  • Why purple leaves look purple

    Anthocyanins absorb green and yellow light, and the blue and red they send back read as purple.

  • Why purple stops at the neck

    Purple pigment can climb a trichome's stalk and stop short of the head. One likely reason: anthocyanins dissolve in water, and the resin head is oily.

  • Why cold turns plants purple

    Cool nights raise anthocyanins in many plants, and Nik suggests that besides screening light they help cell membranes cope with the cold.

  • Less light means less water use

    When the light drops, so does the water a plant moves. Nik tapers the light as the pot dries, not straight after a heavy watering.